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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. But, nestled prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.